Spit or Swallow Movember Box Wine Tasting

I was lucky enough to be invited to this event. The Grand Daddy Hotel, ex Metropole Hotel for you old timers, played host. Wow what a venue, stunning rooftop play palace is all I can call it. Certainly my new favourite chill spot in Cape Town.

Personally I believe this has to be the most exciting event of the wine year. And I am not being sarcastic or flippant when I say that. Anel and Jan of www.spitorswallow.co.za are two smart cookies. And if there are any wine brands out there that need shaking up, modernising, (I can think of a few) I reckon you should be knocking on their door. They understand the new generation of wine drinkers, they understand social media, they are creative and most of all

very tech savy. Why does all this matter? Because the South African wine scene is so dominated by boring stiffs. People who are stuck in the past and wine hacks that are at each others throats. Quite honestly it all very sad.

So when I get invited to an event that is anti the establishment, anti old school bow-tie stiff I get very excited. Firstly this was a Box wine tasting, hell most wine snobs don't even know box wine exists. Secondly the dress code was "trucker cool", think lots of caps, moustaches, ray bans, chequered shirts, cheap t-shirts. Thirdly the venue was very hip and cool, certainly not pretentious. Most importantly the whole evening was relaxed, informal and fun.

So what of the wines. Well lets just say you get box wine you can drink and box wine you can't. I have never ever told anybody to stay clear of a wine...that is till now. Ever heard of Black Box Merlot/Cab Blend? If you haven't lucky you. It was number 6 in the red wine line up...6 is the mark of the devil and I can now see why. Tread lightly, drink at your peril. Be warned.

With box wine, you are looking for an easy drinking wine, you plan to drink a fair bit so it has to be pretty balanced, not too acidic or too sweet. With white boxed wines keep an eye out for Eno enducing acidity, and with the reds you want clean red fruit, no funkiness, or dirty off odours. The winners on the night were, drum roll please:

Drostdy Hof Sauvignon Blanc 2010 and Du Toitskloof Cellar 2010 Pinotage-Merlot-Ruby Cabernet.

For a full list of wines and score : http://winetimes.co.za/2010/11/05/the-2010-top-7-red-and-white-box-wines-in-south-africa/

Value in the Winelands

I was lucky enough to be invited to the launch of Wine Magazines Best Value Wine Guide 2011. I have over the years collected this little book with military precision, so to be invited to the launch was great. When my own interest in wine first blossomed and with a limited budget I was forced to try and discover exactly these sorts of gems. Wines that are well made, without acids so harsh that you loose the enamel on your teeth and wines that are "clean". These are good drinking wines, with a hint of complexity, crowd pleasing and won't cost you a weeks wages. I can't tell you just how valuable this little guide is. Lets face it we have all been there, you need a bottle of wine, you go to your local store and you buy what looks best or a brand that you "know"....wrong! This little guide has more than enough winners under R60, do yourself a favour and get your hands on this years addition, its free with the November addition of Wine Magazine.

Wines in the guide that I wouldn't miss are:

Goedverwacht Shiraz Rose 2010 @ R37.50 per bottle

A great Rose, strawberries, hints of pepper, crisp fresh palette. Perfect picnic wine.

Swartland Cuvee Brut @ R31 per bottle

Not the real deal but just as good. Buy by the case load, without looking at the bottle most people wouldn't tell the difference.

BC Chenin Blanc 2010 @ R17,50 per bottle

A real fruit salad wine with plenty of acidity. At under R20 per bottle you should drink this every day instead of mineral water.

Koelenbosch Houtverouderd Chenin Blanc 2009 @ R35 per bottle

Another Chenin, but a more serious example. More structure and mouth feel from a kiss of wood. Great with food, spicy Asian or curries. Wines like this often cost three times as much.

Lutzville Cool Climate Sauvignon Blanc 2010 @ R24.20 per bottle

Everybody loves a good Sauvi! And this is a good one. Loads of tropical fruit backed up with fresh acidity, nice long finish. Drink out of your finest crystal glasses and feel like royalty.

Van Loveren Cape Riesling 2010 @ R24 per bottle

I thought of Kylie Minogue when I drank this. Sexy little stunner. Lots of fruit, nice length, add a few blocks of ice, one for the ladies.

Orange River White Muscadel 2009 @ R31.85 per bottle

Mango, litchis and raisins, sweet syrupy decadence that finishes fresh and dry. Lovely stuff. Please people don't only drink sweet wines in winter, chilled muskadel is great in summer.

Glen Carlou Tortoise Hill Red 2008 @ R45 per bottle
A juicy, soft, blend that will go well with variety of food. Great dinner table wine. Look out for the Tortoise Hill White a stunning white blend that will really impress for the price.

Riebeek Pinotage 2009 @ R30 per bottle

Our national grape and no braai would be complete without a glass of Pinotage. Goes well with marinated ribs, steak, chops, boerewors...anything on a braai. Loads of plush red fruit and silky smooth tannins. Be patriotic, braai and drink a bottle of Pinotage at least once a week.

Koelenbosch Sangiovese 2009 @ R28.50 per bottle

Sangiovese, say it like an Italian mama. Red cherries, hints of smoke and spice. This Italian grape as expected goes well pasta and pizza. A light bodied wine, would also be great slightly chilled, just says open another...and another...

So there you have it. My choice of great value for money winners, most of these wines available from Ultra Liquors, or try your local supermarket.

Cheers!

PS: The launch was at one of my favourite Wineland pit stops Joostenburg Deli. If you haven't tried their chicken pies your missing pie nirvana.

Stellies Wine Festival 2010

I love wine festivals, it's a great way to meet "wine people" and try so many wines in a relatively easy way, if you can stomach the crowds that is. This years Stellenbosch Wine festival was a little different, no more at Paul Roos School but rather each farm doing their own thing like vintage tastings, barrel samples etc. You really would need to spend a week going from farm to farm in order not to miss anything, we only had one day! It became an amazing wine race against time:

STOP 1: Bottelary Hills Wine Center to collect our passes, maps and line our stomachs with a boerrie roll.

STOP 2: Kanonkop. 4 wines, a 1996 and 1993 Pinotage, 2005 Paul Sauer and a 2000 Cabernet. No burnt rubber, just pure clean bright fruit, world class. South African First Growth for sure.

STOP 3: Muratie. For old world charm and atmosphere nothing quite compares. We were warmly welcomed by the beautiful tasting room hostess, maybe it was her charm but the wines certainly didn't disappoint. Ansela van da Caap 2007 the stand out wine.

STOP 4: Tokara. What a view! Needing a breather we settled next to the huge fire and relaxed with a glass of Tokara Cabernet Sauvignon 2001 Reserve. No tasting fee and long list of wines to choose from you could easily spend a few hours just lingering...

STOP 5: Neil Ellis. New tasting venue not yet officially open, but open for the festival weekend. Beautiful venue, lovely view, amazing wines. Sauvignon Blanc consistently one of the Capes best and the Aenigma Red 2007 at R85 per bottle way over delivers, order by the boot load.

STOP 6: Etienne le Riche Wines. The King of Cab. A simple winemaking setup, no smoke and mirrors, just good old fashioned winemaking that works amazingly well. Reserve Cab 2007, Platters may as well announce it as a 2011 five star wine already.

STOP 7: Back to Bottelary Hills Wine center. Had a quick walk around the center tasting some great wine, some not so great. Stand outs: Mooiplass, their wines too cheap I believe, and Sterhuis. We also had the pleasure of experiencing a vertical Sterhuis Sauvignon Blanc tasting with Johan Kruger of Sterhuis. He is a real wine character, quirky and interesting. 5 vintages of Sauvignon Blanc confirmed a house style of Burgundian elegance, minerality and restraint.

STOP 8: Annandale, the home of Hempies du Toit. Having tasted the famed reds of Kanonkop, Neil Ellis and Etienne le Riche we were in a position to compare the wines of Annandale with more fancied producers. I can honestly say I was blown away! I want to drink the wines of Annandale on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday....Try the 2001 Cavalier, try the 2003 Shiraz, try them all. We were even fortunate enough to taste a 1970 Alto Rouge. 40 years young, still fresh, clean fruit, tasted blind I would have guessed a sexy teenager in high heels. What a treat, what a rare pleasure, makes drinking so many crap wines over the years all worth it. I guess you have to kiss a few frogs before you find your princess.

STOP 9: La Avenir, not for the wine but for food, and a big screen TV to watch the Germans thrash the Argentines. By now my wine legs were deserting me and I needed a well earned break. An amazing day had come to an end. With over 50 wines tasted, mostly fine claret, I can safely say Stellenbosch is still the home of the Big Red.

STOP 10: My bed.

Braveheart Winemaker

If wineries were judged on beauty of location...If wineries were judged on how nice the people who run them are...If wineries were judged on how beautiful the drive is to said winery...then Herold Wines would be South Africa's top winery finished and klaar. Herold Wines lies just above George in a most beautiful location, a valley that is straight out of Hansel and Gretel . In order to get to the farm you need to take the Montague Pass over the Outeniqua Mountains, this must surely be in my humble opinion one of the most beautiful drives in South Africa. Even if the wine tasted like vinegar, and it doesn't, the drive alone makes this a special trek.

A trip to Herold Wines is not only about wine, it is an experience and one best not rushed. The farm, surrounded by mountains, is all of 300 hectares, of this only 6 hectares are planted with vine. We were warmly welcomed by the friendly and likable Vivien (pictured above) and Bruce Harper. This husband and wife team have been making Wines here since 2000, Vivien ever the keen gardener turned her hand to winemaking and the rest is history. Brave women indeed. Wines are made in a fairly uncomplicated way with as little fiddling as possible. Everything is done by hand where possible, some of the equipment being so small you would be mistaken for thinking it was a replica of the real deal.

What stood out for me most about Herold Wines was the notion of terroir. This truly is the expression of sight specific wines. No bought in grapes, no mixing and matching of different sites, just what their site gives them from one vintage to the next. My only disappointment is the fact that they are using cultivated yeast. I am sure as Vivian becomes a more confident, not competent, winemaker she will trust her motherly instincts and let the wild yeast do its thing. Then this magnificent site will truly be reflected in these beautiful wines. When this day comes I will be the first person knocking at the door. Being a cool climate area picking carries on till May...yes May. As a result the wines have low alcohols, 12-13% and very drinkable and elegant. In fact I would describe the house style as very old world, no fruit bombs, high alcohol over extracted wines.

Here are my brief notes on the wines:

Skaam Skaap 2008: My personal favourite out of the lot, a fairly easy drinking undemanding sort of wine. A blend of Pinot, Chardonnay and Sauvi. Think of Haute Cabriere Pinot Chardonnay that people so love, just a lot better. Lovely fruit and a hint of floral. Well balanced, well made.

Sauvignon Blanc 2009: Petulant sort of wine, fizzy, lively. Wonderful nose, goose berry and a slight hint of greenness, but not overtly so, fairly long finish, again well balanced. Not everybody's cup of tea. Racy style.

Red Men: Cab, Shiraz and Merlot Blend. These varietals just doesn't work on this site. Although I think the Merlot, using the correct clone may have potential here. So they make a blend, only 3000 odd bottles made. If it was me I would rip out these varieties and concentrate on the Pinot.

Pinot Noir 2008: This is the varietal that put Herold Wines on the Wine Radar in 2006 by winning Wine Mags Pinot Noir challenge, seeing off more fancied competition. The 2008 is still dominated by wood, on the nose you would be forgiven for guessing it was a coffee style pinotage, but the hints of vegetal character, fynbos and the slightest bit of wild honey made up for this. Perfect Pinot colour. An interesting wine, certainly no tooti frutti wine. I bought a few bottles and will be watching how these develop with age.

The only other winery that I can think of that comes close in terms of remoteness, ruggedness and natural beauty is Cederberg Winery. Perhaps the wines are not in the same lofty league, but just to be spoken of in the same breath must surely tell you just how truly special this spot is.

The River Cafe

Saturday was such a lovely afternoon so we decided to hit the road after lunch and taste some wine. First stop was Klein Constantia, lovely wine, classy, elegant blah blah. Bought a bottle of Vin de Contance for that special occasion. From there we headed off to Constantia Uitsig. Again lovely wines well made if a tad pricey, over R200 for both the MCC and their sweet wine. After an interesting tasting we felt a little peckish so we decide to try something lite from the adjoining River Cafe.

Lovely setting, beautiful courtyard, breathtaking mountain view, stunning weather, warm and friendly service, what could be a better way to spend a Saturday afternoon...wrong. Feeling peckish we ordered the Charcuterie Platter, Cheese Board and a bottle of Buiten Blanc. The meat platter wasn't anything great, pickles straight out of a Pick n Pay No Name Brand selection. The meats okay. The wine was stunning, love this wine, makes me happy with its summer floral notes. Sunshine in a bottle. So were did it all go wrong? Wine glasses and the cheese board. Wine glasses with rims as thick as Ronaldos leather boots. At a wine estate? You gotta be kidding me. But wait there is more. The cheese board @ R75. Have a look at the pic. Notice the lovely cheese....BTW my 4 year old daughter didn't arrange the plate. I thought somebody was having me on. Was Wackhead lurking...Somebody was pulling the piss. In all my life I have never seen a more sorry, sad and depressing cheese board. Thanks guys, I will be having Cheese Board nightmares from now on.

Do yourself a favour, visit Cape Point Vineyards, for about R130 you get a real Cheese Board. An experience in cheese, an adventure on a board. I was imagining the Windhoek Lager dude looking over my shoulder whispering..."Keep it Real". Cause this surely isn't the real deal.

I am in love with Nikela.

With time to spare and the promise of more rain to come I decided to do two quick pitsops in Stellenbosch and taste some wine. But where? With the rain bucketing down and the mood I was in, it could be only one, I actually mean two. So I paid a visit to Grangehurst and Annandale. Both have the same old world wine philosophies, release wines after a few years, no rush here. Both wineries are now releasing their 2002 vintage....yes 2002!

First stop was Grangehurst. Only 3 wines to taste: a Rose , the 2002 Nikela a Cape Blend, and a 2002 Cab Sav. The Rose was quite surprising, very fresh nose, certainly not sweet on the palate (aka 4 Sweet Cousins) or overly acidic. So a really well made everyday easy drinking wine. Next up was the Nikela. Wow! What a nose, so complex, first thing that hit me was spice, like when grandma used to bake Christmas cakes...then little heaps of read fruit. Man I was excited. On the palate it was as fresh as a freshly cut bouquet of roses. Was this really a 2002? That is what impressed me most about this wine, 8 years young and still miles of good legs and structure. It made me think of that song: Things Can Only get better...this wine can only get better. I haven't tasted many old world wines, but I would describe this wine as Modern Old World...fresh, clean, precise and pure elegance. This must be one of the finest wines I have ever tasted. The poor Cab had a hard act to follow. The nose on the Cab was tighter than the Nikela, maybe a little shyer. But the palate showed as much life and interest. Again very fresh, great balance between fruit and silky smooth tannins. All in all a very quick tasting, but if you are looking for serious wines for serious wine lovers, not fast food wines, then this has to be one of the best places in the winelands to find it.

PS: I bought a bottle of the Nikela and decided to open it at dinner with friends. I made a Tagine of lamb, dates and apricots. I let our guests know that they were about to taste one of the finest reds to come out the Cape Winelands in my humble opinion.....(DRUM roll please) and then the bottle was forked, I mean corked. Pity. Real pity. But there is a lesson to be learnt. If you find a wine that you truly love, a wine that is so delicate and poised, a wine so perfect...buy a case not a bottle.

Next up Annandale.

The Tasting Room

As much as I love food, fine dining really not my thing. Comfort food, great company, great wine more my speed. But the chance to dine at The Tasting Room at Le Quartier Francais was something I was really excited about. I don't need to bore you about the facts about how many awards these guys have won, Top 50 in the world, Eat Out etc. I think awards are just that, but when a restaurant delivers year in and year out then you know its gotta be special. And that is exactly what Margot Janse, she is the Michael Jordan of Food, and her team have been doing for quite some time.

We arrived and were warmly welcomed, nothing quite as spectacular as Rust en Vrede I may add. But warm and friendly nevertheless. The room is neither over the top nor glitzy. But has a certain warmth, minimalist atmosphere that makes you feel very relaxed and comfortable. That old cliche: if the design and layout is over the top then the food is best left under the table works in reverse here. Linen, cutlery, furnishings and stemware were all of the quality you would expect.

You get to choose between a 5 course and a 8 course menu. We chose the 8 course with wine paring. The 8 courses kind of becomes 10 after the chef throws in 2 little surprises. Before I get to the food let me just say the following regarding the wine. I was pleasantly surprised. Why? Vin de Florence, Glenwood Merlot, Cedarberg Baukatraube, Excelsior Viognier, Môreson Pinotage hardly the big guns of SA wine. But each wine was so well matched, I guess I am a bit of a closet wine snob expecting that only the Thelemas, Kanonkops, Boekenhoutskloofs etc could do justice to the fine food. The wines served were all wonderful, excellent partners that stood perfectly alongside each dish, never overshadowing the food, but rather playing a complementary role. Just like a perfect marriage, the man always playing a great support role...

And the food you say! Well how do you talk about something so elegant, precise, well executed, sublime, delicate, poised, blah blah blah. It really is that good. Each portion so light yet packed with flavour and contrast. Each plate painted by a master craftsmen. Luderitz oyster, chorizo, cucumber and granadilla was an interesting way to start. Coming to the table in a tiny smoke filled glass only added to the excitment on the night. Were we at the Fat Duck? Followed by lemon poached Transkei rock lobster, prawn wafer, and a tiny marshmallow. I loved this dish even though it was on the sweet side. Next up was Foie gras, prosciutto, cranberry and whisky dressing. My fellow dinners weren't won over by this dish, but being a whisky fan I was in heaven. A celeriac and buchu risotto was next. I hate risotto. No, I hate badly cooked risotto. But "Local is lekker" and this was a winner. A comforting course after all the preciseness and proceeding delicacy. And so the evening went on. Each courses maintaining the same high standard. The general service overall was of a high standard. Unobtrusive, we were only asked once if we were enjoying our meal, and his was between courses. After each course our cutlery was reset with the slight of hand of a magician.

So was the evening faultless? We managed to knock over a few glasses of wine and set a menu alight, bringing a new meaning to "hot food". But if I really had to be picky I would say the overall menu isn't seasonal enough. I stand under correction but the menu hasn't changed much for quite some time. The odd change is made from time to time but never an overall change from one season to the next to reflect what is best and what is in season. So certainly not seasonal. That being a small gripe, this certainly is fine dining at the very top end. Would I return? Is almost R1000 per person fair value? Pay the Tasting Room a visit and you be the judge of that.

Cheers!

Fly Swatting

Five Flies. That long standing Cape Town institution, so liked by the law fraternity, was our latest venue for undercover wine tasting. If walls could talk this place would spill the beans, I mean tell the truth, on almost every case ever heard in the Cape High Court. And considering the penchment the legal fraternity has for the finer thing in life, at their clients expense, running our eagle eyes, noses and taste senses over what makes up the Five Flies Wine list sounded like the obvious thing to do. I must admit I have never dined here before, I have always been afraid that I would be slapped with a civil lawsuit running into millions if I said the wrong thing or looked the wrong way. But I needn't have feared, I found the atmosphere warm and friendly. Look they not going to win too many bespoke design awards, rather more old world than new, tradition over innovation, established over cutting edge, wood over stainless steel. All in all lots of neutral tones, white table cloth's and dark wood, you get the picture. But we came to taste the wines not do a review for Huisgenoot.

We were seated in a private room off the main dining room. I could imagine this as a plesent space to enjoy a dinner with close friends in a private atmosphere. Or maybe chat in hushed tones about how to lie your way out of a death sentence...but I digress. I have a few pet hates when it comes to wine lists and serving wine in restaurants. In no particular order: Boring wine lists, huge mark ups, wine served at incorrect tempretures, crap glasses, and staff that don't have a clue when it comes to wine. Why do I mention this, well because Five Flies is guilty of at least two of the above. Wine glasses with edges as thick as milk bottles are just so unsexy and serving reds at Arctic temperatures is enough of a sin to spend a weekend in Pollsmoor. Serving warm wines is punishable by death so the bar staff figured lets keep our reds nice and chilled. Good idea but please take them from the fridge at least 30 minutes before serving, frozen ethanol not really my cup of tea. So what of the wines served.

NO1: Warwick Sauvignon Blanc 09: 13/20

This wine reminds me of Paris Hilton-its famous for being famous. It comes from the famed Warick Estate so the pedigree is there. But I really fails to deliver. At R185/bottle you could do better and go for the Waterford Pecan Stream Sauvignon Blanc at R 115/bottle and treat yourself to a fine Havana with the change. I found the nose to be fairly shy, but with subtle hints of tropical fruit. The palate showed the same fruit with a pleasing weight. The real disappointment was the finish and out of sync acid. Rennies all round and an aftertaste that disappears faster than Juluis Mallema once all the trouble has been caused.

NO2: Hartenberg Chardonnay 08 15/20

If you are tired of over oaked badly handled Chardonnay that often tastes like Oak Juice then give this wine a go. The nose was inviting and intriguing with subtle hints of spice, lemon, caramel and toffee apple. Like your Grandma standing at the kitchen door saying come in my son...the nose excites you and entices you to savour and enjoy every sip. The palate has a nice balance between fruit and acidity with a satisfying finish. The only faults I could find with this wine is I found the alcohol a little harsh and the mid palate slightly lacking. All in all a good example of what can be done with Chardonnay if handled correctly. Fair value at R165/bottle

NO3: Paul Cluver Gewurtz 09 14.5/20

Coco Chanel no5 in a bottle. Fragrant, perfumey, certainly a wine I guess ladies would enjoy. An expressive nose of rose petals and litchi. Nice fruit on the palate with a kiss of spice, I did however find the acid and weight lacking. This wine cries out for food, anything Thai, Indian or even Cape Malay. At R135/bottle I would call this a great value buy.

NO4: Muldersbosch Chardonnay 07 13.5

For me the real disappointment on the night. I have had this wine before and really loved it. But on this occasion for me it just didn't deliver, or maybe it was just me who was off my game. An overpowering nose of all things oak didn't excite me to what the palate had in store.

NO5: Dornier Pinotage 07 12/20

Pinotage you either love it or you hate it. Me, I sit on the electric fence. More Pinot Noir in character than Pinotage, think forest floor, mushrooms and a hint of sulphur...I found the palate lacking in fruit and dominated by perky acidity. At R165 per bottle you decide if thats fair value.

NO6: Raka Quinary 2005 13/20

A Bordeaux blend, that still seems big, even though the wine is 5 years young. Big powerfull nose with lots of oak, hints of spice and dark red fruit masked by the oaking, even the tannins are fairly prominent. So all in all a big wine that is crying out for a man mountain steak. At R185 I think you could do better by choosing Alto Rouge @ R165 that pairs much better with a wider variety of food.

NO7: Leopeards Leap 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon 14/20

Lots of baked fruit on the nose and a slight hint on greenness/herbal note. I found the palate very satisfying and well balanced, lots of red dark fruit, think plums. Once again this wine also showed a fair amount of grip suggesting it would pair well with herb crusted rack of lamb.

NO8: Stellenkaya Merlot 2006 14.5/20

My first impression of this wine was: restraint. Nothing big and overpowering jumping out at you. Rather subtle, delicate hints of spice and cloves all surrounded by a touch of blackcurrant. Stellenkaya is headed by a bunch of dynamic women, a female touch evident on the nose. With such an elegant nose I was certainly interested in weather the promise would deliver through. And it did to a point. All the red fruits were there but all to briefly. So a great start but a short finish.Will pair well with veal and a light Parmesan cream sauce.

Five Flies Wine list in general isn't bad but it isn't great. At the top end they have a nice enough collection for the wealthy lawyers to splurge their clients cash on, but at the entry level and mid range I think the list lacks imagination and variety. The biggest disappointment for me was the temperature of the red wines, all way to low. As a result it becomes difficult to asses the wine. Green, chunky and unpleasant. On the night the overall scores were fairly low, I am sure had the red wines been served at the correct temperature the overall scores would have been higher by about half a point.

Now let me see if I can find myself a half decent honest lawyer.

Cheers.